Friends,
I’ve been roaming around India and have new wellness ideas to bring you. I have news from cities where traditions thrive amid new dynamism, from the Jawai's unspoilt nature near Udaipur, from the weaving villages and forgotten Buddhist sites in the Krishna River valley - not a tourist in sight. There will be something for everyone.
Enjoy my monthly columns (and find previous ones here). Let them inspire you to let me help you create your perfect trip.
UNPACKING WELLNESS IN INDIA
Episode 37
Location: Taj Mahal Hotel, Lucknow, Gomti Nagar, Lucknow, Uttar Pradesh
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The nawab rulers of Awadh made Lucknow northern India’s most sophisticated city, from literature and food to craft, social manners and dress. Rulers and courtiers swathed themselves in long gathered dresses of the finest muslin topped with lusciously brocaded coats. Despite the final ruler being deposed by the British in 1856, much of this high culture survives, indeed thrives. Given Lucknow sits between popular Agra and Varanasi, and has a good hotel, it’s surprising that so few curious visitors to India come here.
First, the priority: hotel comfort. The opulent Taj Mahal Lucknow ticks all the boxes: good rooms, helpful service, live classical flute music wafting through the lobby. It has a congenial bar, Sahib Café for a breakfast spread, and Oudhyana for full-on Lucknowi cuisine. Wellbeing is serviced by the garden’s jogging track, the big pool and a modest-but-notable spa; guests report having their best massage for months.
Next, the city. Who were the nawabs of Awadh? Tracing their ancestry to Nishapur in Iran, these Shia Muslims seem to have arrived in the Gangetic plain at the time of the 15C Sayyid sultans of Delhi. They later rose to become semi-autonomous rulers within the weakened Mughal empire, taking advantage of the widespread chaos following Emperor Aurangzeb’s death in 1707 – a chaos that also helped the British establish their trading foothold in India and, later, control lucrative Awadh. Lucknow and its Iran-infused nawabi culture blossomed, peaking first under Asaf-ud-Daula’s rule (1775-97) and then under Wajid-Ali-Shah, who ruled from 1847 until the British deposed him in 1856.
Today, Lucknow is capital of Uttar Predesh, India’s most populous state (160-190 million, depending how you count), but historic central Lucknow is not crowded.
For buildings, the great Imambara is the starting point for many well-kept nawab-era buildings (all spruced up for the G-20 Summit). For eccentricity, don’t miss La Martiniere School’s crazy museum rooms, a tribute to its founder and builder, Claude Martin. The fascinating British Residency surprises in many ways: how much survives, how well it is conserved and how informative the new site museum is. A shining example of India’s inclusive historical perspective found across most of this diverse country.
Above all, be sure to wander Lucknow's old lanes to experience lingering Iranian culture and old-fashioned charm. If an 18th century courtier came round the corner on his way to visit a courtesan to recite poetry and watch her dance, I’d not be surprised.
Here you can easily find embroiderers (and sellers) of ‘chikan’ work, the most traditional being white-on-white embroidery on fine muslin. See brass-workers, makers of tazias, silversmiths and jewellers, too, and markets for Qur’an stands, utensils, renting huge wedding cooking pots, and more. Then, there is the food. A banquet itinerary might begin at Idrees Biryani (see below), continue with Mubeen’s unmissable chicken dish with a nihari kulcha, and almost end at Galawati for a renowned Lucknowi kebab (160 ingredients). Pudding: a dollop of Lucknow’s makham-malai, like whipped and sweetened double cream. Finally, a digestive at Gola Dum Chai, perhaps India's no.1 tea stall.
Must-do wellness experience at the Taj Mahal Lucknow: a massage
Taj Mahal Lucknow buzzwords: Did you learn how to make biryani in the old city?
Take some exercise at Asaf-ud-Daula's magnificent Asafi Imambara, a congregational hall for Shi ritual ceremonies. See the tazias on the ground floor, then clamber up to explore the tunnel maze (with a local guide or you will get lost), peeking down into the great hall. On up to the roof where his photo was taken.
Among the craftsmen in the old city lanes, this one is making tazias for the Shia rituals during Muharram festival which commemorates the death of The Prophet's grandson, Hussain. Each is a replica of Hussain's tomb; the finest are kept in Lucknow's Imambaras.
Wander the British Residency (now the on-site museum) of the Residency Complex built 1780-1800 to be, essentially, a gated community. Well-labelled remains evoke the long British presence in Lucknow which included the 1857 siege, India's first big step towards independence in 1947.
To eat really, really well, go to the old city. In front of Idrees Biryani, you can take an instant cooking course. The mutton is slow-cooked on hot coals in a great handi (cauldron), then hot milk and sauce added. Freshly boiled and drained rice and saffron sauce are added in layers, then covered tightly. The key is to cook very slowly and not to stir - Muhammad the boss delves down to the meal when he serves the fragrant biryani with shirmal bread. Yummy!
In Lucknow, young Taqir serves his chai in bespoke terracotta cups, topping it off with thick cream from the boiled milk. His stall sums up the importance of chai in India. The words (read anti-clockwise) mean experience, friendship, meeting friends, peaceful moment, foresightedness, necessity, repleat/bliss, and companionship. Wellbeing in a teacup!
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