Friends,
I’ve been on a wellness road trip through the countryside from Jodhpur in Rajasthan south-east to Panna National Park in Central India. It was terrific. I stayed in small, owner-managed, mostly historic hotels and encountered timeless traditions and nature in its pure richness and beauty. Best of all, I reckon I found whatever your wellness kick is.
I’m going to share each of these spots with you, one by one. I'm ready to book one or two for you, or you can follow my whole route.
Our road trip kicks off from Jodhpur, where I’ve selected one among several classy, small, owner-managed hotels thriving there. (I’ll tell you about the others later.)
Enjoy!
UNPACKING WELLNESS IN INDIA
Episode 40
Location: Bungalow 2, Rai Ka Bagh, Jodhpur, Rajasthan 342006
Explore the Bungalow 2 website here
Rajat Singh’s grandfather was given this handsome, spacious, airy house by the Maharaja of Jodhpur as thanks for exceptional services during World War II. It had been built in the late 19C as ‘nazarbandh’, that is, a place where feudal chiefs were held under house arrest for not paying their lagaan (tax) to their maharaja – not such a good move given he was the powerful Rajput ruler of huge Marwar kingdom. Happily, it was a rather comfortable form of restraint. Later, the British Resident lived here.
With its period fixtures and fittings setting the tone, today Rajat and his German wife Susanne Kuhn-Singh ensure their guests live in the kind of peaceful, sophisticated and personal comfort that a British Resident – or rebuked noble - might expect. Everything to hand, all needs anticipated, nothing ostentatious. ‘We absolutely created this for foreign guests’, says Rajat frankly. ‘No TV, no pool, no lift, no room service, no phone – just a bell instead. And only home-made food!’ He laughs, saying Indians would not be happy here, ‘as they eat that at their own homes, they want something different when they go away.’
I worry about the lack of ‘bed tea’ - the luxury of being brought a tray of early morning tea on waking is the ultimate start to my day. But Rajat brokes no exception. Guests in the eight rooms must slip along in their pyjamas to help themselves to early tea and coffee set out on a deep verandah.
The house has been carefully restored and converted, using traditional materials and skills. Rajat, Susanne and their family live on the ground floor, and are available for their guests 24/7; guest rooms (two with private verandahs) and living spaces are above. Before launching Bungalow 2 they both worked in the German travel trade for 20 years, bringing people to India. ‘So we do what we know and do best’, says Rajat. That about sums up highly professional Bungalow 2.
Must-do wellness experience at Bungalow 2: Exploring Jodhpur, then hanging out on a verandah, drink in hand, doing not much.
Bungalow 2 buzzwords: ‘Did you taste the new-season haldi-ki-sabzi and green chickpeas at dinner?’
Relax on a verandha, in the garden or in a living room. Enjoy the calm, sip a drink, read. Perhaps chat with Rajat and Susanne to learn more about the house's history or get tips on where to explore next in Jodhpur that fits with your interests - monumental Mehrangarh Fort, busy Clock Tower markets, an outing to Osian or Mandore, or to Roopraj the top dhurrie maker (he ships!).
Revel in the dedication and craftsmanship that went into refurbishing the house - peeling off paint to reveal Jodhpur sandstone, mending Burma teak doors, reusing old materials. Cleaned up Jharoka windows with their jali screens now sit beside modern bathrooms; local craftsmen have added murals. Rajat and Susanne roamed India to find decorative arts.
Slip out of Bungalow 2's comfort zone to stroll Jodhpur's old city whose community hub is the restored step-well. Perhaps it's too much effort to join sunrise yoga and chanting, so choose from half a dozen roof-top cafes to watch the world go by beneath you and on other rooftops, and enjoy a breathtaking view of Mehrangarh Fort - my favourite is The Stepwell Cafe.
Visit wondrous Rao Jodha Desert Rock Park in the outer fort area. In 2006 a team of botanists, naturalists and local desert people began to restore 170 acres of forgotten ancient rock to its natural ecology. Plants soon flourished, and birds (more than 40 raptors alone), insects and small animals followed. A morning or evening walk along the gorge and up over the rocks is joyful.
The perfumes of the dishes fellow guests are preparing on Gol Kamra Terrace will lure you in to learn how to cook a seasonal local dish. Jodhpur's stuffed green chillies are a delicacy, and not very 'chilli-hot'. Once you have started to cook, you'll notice the fussy locals at food stalls around town - I love these Jodhpur breakfasts: fresh, sizzling breads, steaming chai, and a big smile.
See previous episodes here
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To start planning your trip or join a small group tour visit my website here